徒步，我們與島嶼的對話-朝聖之路(法國之路)Before Start&Day1

0km>?

計畫許久的旅途，每週維持兩天健身的習慣，加上拳擊、籃球等運動，都是為了維持身體的肌耐力，畢竟距離徒步環台灣已經是13年前，即將步入中年，好多事情都需要考慮，還記得以前徒步環島時，路人遇到我們時，最常問的問題就是：

你們怎麼會有時間？不用上班唷？

那時候的我還不太能理解，為什麼大家都這麼在意這個問題，直到現在的我，才知道大家最常問的這個問題，是有多麽地珍貴，因為，我們永遠跑不贏時間。

在台灣參與過媽祖遶境時的感動，在西藏轉山時感受到虔誠信徒對於神山的敬仰，每個宗教都有追尋的價值，也有信眾願意追隨的理由，這次計畫前往西班牙走朝聖之路，從法國的邊界跨越走向西班牙，一段總長將近800公里的旅行，即將展開。

0km>25km

Saint Jean Pied de Port>Roncesvalles

每個來走朝聖之路的旅人，通常第一站都是到朝聖者辦公室領朝聖護照，一本2歐元，象徵著旅行即將展開，挑了一個貝殼掛在背包上，領完護照掛上貝殼的旅人，不約而同地相視而笑，彼此都知道，在旅途中一定還會時常遇見，都是夥伴。

天還沒亮，青年旅館內的旅人們已經把行李都整理好，青旅主人Lynn邀請我們到樓下一起祈禱，我們一起手牽著手，她請我們閉上眼睛並用溫柔的聲音說著：

「今天大家都要啟程出發朝聖之路，不管你來這段旅程中想要追尋的是什麼，都是很珍貴的，請不要忘記，這個勇敢的自己。好好感受你腳下踩的每一個步伐，那都是你跨出的一大步。」

「也要記得，不管你背負多沈重的壓力(家庭、社會、經濟、生活等等)，但今天開始，你身後只會有背包的重量，這將近800公里的路途，你只需要專心地與你的背包共處，背包後面的事，請你先暫時忘記。」

當Lynn請我們張開眼睛時，許多人都哭了，Lynn請我們給旁邊的人一個擁抱，因為在路上，我們都會有幫助彼此的機會，不管是一句鼓勵、一個幫忙、一次分享，都會在人生中的這個時候，留下深刻的記憶。

擦乾眼淚，即將背上背包的這個瞬間，有種久違的感覺，代表又是一個旅程新的開始，跟著路上指引的朝聖之路方向，踏出了第一步，終於，今日的你可以先不用擔心，自己的人生哪條路才會是對的，哪條路是錯的，也可以將迷惘暫時拋下，只要跟著朝聖之路的箭頭勇敢往前走，一定會抵達目的地。

走法國之路的旅人，都會知道第一天是最辛苦，必須翻越聞名遐邇的庇里牛斯山脈，一路從法國走到西班牙，雖然沿途景色壯麗，但綿延不絕的山路使人體力消耗極快，反覆的上下坡都使膝蓋的負荷加重，每當以為即將抵達時，又是更遠更長的山路在等著你，第一天就走了將近九個小時，路途中還差點走錯路，一陣強風使我停下，我才發現原來另外一條路才是正確的路線，當時已經走到有點頭暈，好險這陣風讓我發現正確的路，也算是某種上帝保佑吧。

抵達Roncesvalles時，兩腳的膝蓋都在顫抖，好險有其他夥伴的鼓勵，讓自己還能有信心，面對接下來的旅程。

0km > ?

This journeyhas been in the works for a while. I’ve kept up a routine of working out twicea week—boxing, basketball, strength training—all to maintain endurance. Afterall, it's been 13 years since I walked around Taiwan. As I approach middle age,more things need to be considered.

Back then,when we were walking around the island, strangers would often ask:

“How do you have the time? Don’t you have to work?”

I didn’tfully get it at the time. But now I do. That question is precious—because wecan never outrun time.

I’ve feltthe deep emotion of the Mazu Pilgrimage in Taiwan, and the spiritual reverenceof Tibetan pilgrims during Mount Kailash’s kora. Every religion has its path,and every believer their reasons. This time, I’m setting out for the Caminode Santiago, walking nearly 800km from the French border into Spain.

0km >25km

Saint Jean Pied de Port > Roncesvalles

Mostpilgrims start by visiting the Pilgrim Office to get a pilgrim passport—just€2, marking the official start of the journey. I picked out a scallop shell andtied it to my backpack. As I left, other pilgrims with the same shell smiledknowingly—we’ll definitely see each other again.

Before dawn,everyone at the hostel had already packed up. The host, Lynn, invited us to thelobby for a prayer. Holding hands, eyes closed, she spoke gently:

“Whateveryou’re searching for on this journey, it matters. Don’t forget this braveversion of yourself. Feel every step you take—each one is huge.”

“Whatever weight you’ve been carrying—family, work, money, life—from todayon, the only burden is your backpack. Let everything else go, at least fornow.”

When weopened our eyes, many were crying. Lynn asked us to hug the person next tous—on the Camino, we’ll all help each other, whether with a kind word, a sharedsnack, or a helping hand. These moments will stay with us.

With tearswiped and backpack strapped on, that first step brought back a long-lostfeeling: the beginning of a new journey.

Follow theyellow arrows. Don’t worry about whether it’s the “right path” in life. Justwalk. You’ll get there.

Day 1 of theCamino Francés is notorious—crossing the Pyrenees from France into Spain. Theviews are epic, but the endless up-and-down trails drain your strength fast.Knees burning, you think the top is near—then another slope appears.

I hikednearly 9 hours on day one. At one point, I almost took the wrong path. A suddengust of wind made me pause—and I noticed the correct trail. Dizzy andexhausted, I was lucky. Maybe even blessed.

Finallyarriving in Roncesvalles, my knees were shaking. But thanks to theencouragement from fellow pilgrims, I found the strength to keep going.