徒步，我們與島嶼的對話-朝聖之路(法國之路) Day2~3 那些旅行教會我們的事

25km>46.7km

Roncesvalles > Zubiri

昨日住修道院內，一個房間大概有一百多人，但整體相當乾淨，算是能夠好好休息一晚，拖著昨日痠痛不堪的腳，今日從Roncesvalles出發，今日出發時還有個小插曲，一個朝聖者在出發後不久扭傷了腳，我們見狀趕快詢問她的情況，她開始哭泣，因為她好不容易才來到這裡，不想就這樣放棄，但看起來是滿嚴重的腳踝翻船，所以我們將她攙扶到旁邊後，建議她多休息幾天，當下就把背包內的痠痛貼布與止痛藥也分一些給她，希望她早日康復。

(昨日在Roncesvalles唯一的餐館遇見一群英國/澳洲/愛爾蘭的朝聖者們）

(晚上的Roncesvalles庇護所旁）

(Roncesvalles庇護所一樓）

今日又是不斷地上坡下坡，沿途中都會與不同的夥伴聊天，大家互相都會慢慢認識彼此，這在出發前幾天會很容易發生，因為大家的步調會滿一致。與丹麥的退休公務員Luna一起走了五公里左右，聊教育、退休生活、為了什麼而來等等，分享台灣與丹麥的不同之處，我想這也是另外一種可以讓外國人更認識台灣的方式。

接著遇到一位荷蘭的女生Isis, 她是利用畢業後的Gap Year來走朝聖之路，因為她主修哲學，所以對於東方的老莊思想與道家學說也有涉略，我覺得很驚訝，因為她很相信東方哲學，甚至連因果輪迴的概念她也深信不疑，所以我們聊了很多關於哲學的話題，也因為聊天所以能夠暫時忘記腳的不舒服，不斷地往前走著。

後面因為腳太痛所以越走越慢，接著開始下雨，這條路上人越來越少，風逐漸變強，那種孤獨的感覺襲來，內心也開始擔心若雨勢過大且天色逐漸變暗，待在這森林中會不會很危險？好險過了不久，聽到了熟悉的祝福語：

「Buen Camino!」

路過的朝聖者替我加油打氣，Buen Camino是朝聖路上最常說的祝福語，祝你一路平安、順利的意思。只要在朝聖之路上遇到彼此，都會講這句話給對方鼓勵與祝福，我也彷彿得到力量，在雨勢加劇之前抵達目的地，與旅伴會合。

有時候，不經意的一個鼓勵或是幫助，都有可能會改變另一個人的人生，在朝聖之路上，更加有感觸。

46.7km>68.5km

Zubiri > Pamplona

還記得昨日走在原始的森林裡時，地上滿是乾枯的樹葉，前進的步伐伴隨著乾燥葉片裂開的聲音，不久後開始下雨，雨滴落在地上滿是枯葉時所發出的聲響，那個聲音很震撼，讓你感受到五雷轟頂的感覺，如今想起來仍是餘悸猶存。

幸好今日有旅伴K一起徒步，旅伴K原本去年就走過朝聖之路，但因為急性胃潰瘍所以只能先回國休息，後來因緣際會下才促成今年這趟朝聖之旅，旅途出發前他給了很多很棒的建議，稱呼他為老朝聖師也不為過。一定很多人會想說旅行是要一個人好，還是要有旅伴才好？我覺得兩個都好，每個人都會嚮往完成一段屬於自己的冒險，也有人需要有旅伴的支持才能堅持下去，前提是要跨出第一步，出發，你才會知道哪種旅行適合自己，多嘗試幾次後，答案自然會在心中浮現。

西班牙奔牛節享譽盛名，我們今日前往奔牛節舉辦的城市-Pamplona, 沿途景色仍舊壯觀，路途中雖然艱辛，但也更多能夠思考的時間，每一段路盡頭轉角，都會猜想是不是要到了，但往往都事與願違，緊接而來是更長的一段路，然後埋頭繼續走著，當你不再胡思亂想扎扎實實往前走，目標總是忽然就在眼前。彷彿就像是人生一樣，在追尋夢想的道路上總會徬徨，思索著何時才能到達目的地完成夢想，但總是不經意地在不斷努力的過程中，與夢想逐漸靠近。

抵達Pamplona時正逢週六，市區早已聚集許多人席地而坐喝起酒來，整個城市相當有活力，想起海明威曾經在這裡寫下的《太陽照常升起》，奔牛節場景栩栩如生，這算是我們睽違已久地進入城市，感受相當特別。

當旅行的越久，似乎需要的就越少。那個瞬間才會發現，原來我們擁有的這麼多。

25km > 46.7km

Roncesvalles > Zubiri

I stayed in a monastery lastnight—over 100 people in one room, but surprisingly clean and restful. Stillsore from the first day, I set off again. Early on, I saw a fellow pilgrimtwist her ankle and start crying. She had worked so hard to get here and didn’twant to give up. We helped her to the side, gave her some pain relief patchesand medicine, and told her to rest for a few days. Hopefully she recovers soon.

Today’s route was full of steepclimbs and descents. I walked with different people and had greatconversations. Early on, I walked 5km with Luna, a retired civil servant fromDenmark. We talked about education, retirement, and why we were here. Sharing Taiwan’sstory with others feels like a small way to help people know my home better.

Later, I met Isis from theNetherlands—she’s doing this as part of a Gap Year after graduation. Shestudied philosophy and is really into Taoist and Buddhist thought. We had deepconversations about Eastern philosophy, karma, and life. It helped distractfrom the pain and made the walk easier.

As my legs grew more painful,I slowed down. Then it started raining. The trail got quiet. Strong windspicked up. I started to feel nervous—what if it gets worse and I’m stuck inthis forest alone?

Just then, I heard thefamiliar greeting:

“Buen Camino!”

A pilgrim passing by offeredthis encouragement. It’s what everyone says to each other on the Camino—“Safejourney.” It gave me a boost, and I made it to Zubiri just before the heavyrain hit, reunited with my friends.

Small acts of kindness reallymatter out here. Sometimes a simple word or gesture can change someone’s wholeexperience. On the Camino, you really feel that.

46.7km> 68.5km

Zubiri > Pamplona

I still remember the sound ofdry leaves crunching under my feet in the forest yesterday—then the rainstarted, drops landing on the leaves with a sound like thunder. It was intenseand unforgettable.

Today I walked with K, anexperienced pilgrim. He had walked the Camino last year but had to stop due toa sudden stomach ulcer. This year he came back, and before we started he gaveme lots of great tips—truly a Camino veteran.

Some people wonder if it'sbetter to travel alone or with others. I think both are great. Some seek soloadventure; others need support to keep going. What matters is taking that firststep. Once you do, you’ll figure out what kind of journey suits you best.

We arrived in Pamplona, home of the famous Running of the Bulls. Thescenery along the way was beautiful, but the walk was tough. Often, I thoughtthe destination was near—only to find another long stretch waiting. But once Istopped overthinking and just focused on walking, the destination suddenlyappeared.

It felt a lot likelife—chasing dreams often feels uncertain, but as long as you keep movingforward, you'll get closer to them without even realizing it.

Pamplona was packed—it wasSaturday and people were drinking in the streets. The city was alive. Hemingwayonce wrote here, and the spiritof the festival still lingers. It was our first real taste of city life afterdays on the trail, and it felt special.

The longer I travel, the less I seem to need.

And that’s when I realized—I already have so much.